Namesake
It can be safely said that food is a critical and defining component of any culture, and here Hamburg is no exception. Today I'm going to talk a little bit about a dish that is the namesake of this blog, and which has its roots on seafaring ships. However, before I can delve further into the dish itself, we need to talk just a little bit about Hamburg.
Despite not being located directly on the coast, Hamburg is a major port city, having the third-busiest port in Europe, and the 15th largest in the world. Located directly on the Elbe river, about 110 kilometers or 68 miles inward from the North Sea, more than 145.7 million tonnes of cargo move through the port each year.
A portion of the port of Hamburg, pictured here on a stormy evening
All this cargo is moved by ships coming in and out of the port, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, 365 days a year.
A huge cargo ship coming into Hamburg
These massive modern behemoths of the sea are manned by a skeleton crew of sailors, who, like the rest of us, need to eat. Nowadays, thanks to modern technology, the meals on these ships are practically identical to the meals enjoyed by landlubbers such as you and I, but it wasn't always so.
Before the modern marvel of today's cargo ship, and before the advances in the technology of food preservation and the advent of refrigeration, there were still sailors and ships on the high seas, ferrying cargo across the globe. These sailors still needed to eat, and had to rely on provisions that could keep for the duration of the long months at sea. This necessity gave rise to creative meals, and it is here that we arrive at the meal that is the namesake of this blog: "Labskaus."
There are many variations of the dish, but for clarity, I'll be focusing today on the version of the dish that is enjoyed in the Hamburg region. Labskaus is typically composed of just a few simple ingredients: Corned beef, beets, potatoes, pickles, and onions. These ingredients are mashed or puréed together and often garnished with some sort of pickled fish, some fried eggs, and additional onions, pickles, and beets.
A plate of Labskaus I enjoyed last Thursday
If you take a look at this picture and don't automatically think "Wow that looks delicious!" but instead feel your stomach rolling in revolt, you are not alone. When I first heard Labskaus described to me, I thought it sounded like something that should have stayed on ships and never found its way to land. However, after multiple appeals from locals and against my better judgement, I eventually acquiesced. I honestly no longer remember the exact first time I had Labskaus, but I remember not liking it so much in the beginning, but not hating it either. I was ambivalent about its existence.
Over time though, whether before a night out on the town, or as a hearty Sunday afternoon meal, I found myself enjoying Labskaus more and more. Unlike with say, fish and chips, one does not feel the immediate need to fall into a post-consumption coma after having Labskaus. It is a rather healthy meal that leaves you feeling full, warm, and content. I am obviously not alone in my assessment, as on any given evening in a traditional Hamburg restaurant, you are sure to encounter a handful of people partaking in this unique culinary delight.
If you're still reading, it must mean the visual display of Labskaus was not entirely repugnant to you. You may even be asking yourself, "Where can I find a good plate of Labskaus if I come visit Hamburg?" To this I say, "You're in luck!" because no discussion of Labskaus would be complete without at least a couple of recommendations of where some good Labskaus can be found here.
For the complete maritime Labskaus experience, I recommend the "Kleinhuis' Restaurantschiff," which is, as its German name would suggest, a "restaurant ship" that is docked in a small historical museum harbor on the Elbe river, pictured below on a sunny day. Here you can enjoy your Labskaus while also watching cargo ships, oil tankers, tugboats, and all manner of harbor traffic sail by. Be sure to call ahead and get a reservation in advance though, as this place is regularly full of people just like you looking to enjoy the good food and harbor views.
The restaurant ship, in all its glory, whose staff will be happy to serve you a steaming hot plate of Labskaus
Photo taken from kleinhuis-restaurantschiff.de
If you'd prefer to enjoy your Labskaus with solid ground beneath your feet instead of rocking back and forth on a ship, then Frau Möller is the perfect place for you. Close to the Hamburg central train station and nestled in the hip neighborhood of St. Georg, Frau Möller is a Hamburg institution that serves Labskaus the traditional Hamburg way, other German dishes, and typical pub fare. You can't make reservations for groups of less than 8 people, and tables are first come first serve, so you might want to arrive early in the evening, but it is definitely worth it! It's also a cash-only establishment, so be sure to visit an ATM beforehand. Places that only accept cash are still surprisingly common here, but that is a topic for another time.
It doesn't look like much from the outside, but I promise you, you won't regret your visit
Image taken from tripadvisor.com
Inside you are immersed in rustic, maritime flair
Image taken from 11880.com
If nothing else, I hope that you now know a little bit more about this traditional sailor's meal, and if you ever find yourself in Hamburg, I encourage you to give it a try, or maybe even make it yourself wherever you call home! After all, as I'm sure some sailor somewhere has said, life's too short not to eat pickled fish.